Hello all and welcome back! In this segment, we get to work in the transmission and final drive reassembly. We cover installation of the reverse idler gear as well as the countershaft & bearings. We also go through a number of seals in the transmission, and I make sure to include the numbers (also listed below). Be sure to visit the GoFundMe link below to contribute to the cause that this project is helping to bring awareness to. Thanks for watching and wrenching with me, and stay tuned!
Below is a compiled parts list for the transmission seals, gaskets, and bearings:
REAR END SEALS:
PTO Seal – 59401D/358790R91/71910C1 – SKF 473010 or 16246
PTO Sealing Ring – 58419D
PTO Lever Seal – Factory # 70268D/358796R91/488560R91/358831R91 – SKF 6925
Trans Input Shaft Seal – 79634H/383159R91 – SKF 18733
Countershaft Seal – 43308D/71701C1/356502R91 – SKF 13602
Hydraulic Drive Seal – 43509D/938294R91SKF 13649
Rear Axle Seal (2) – 43722D/SKF 25043/National 455001S
Belt Pulley Seal – 49177D / 358783R91 / 358822R91 / SKF 18580 / 389407R92 / National 472439
Brake Pedal Shaft Seal (2) –380959R91 – 476838 National
Differential Brake Seals (2) – 48498D / 358777R91 / 360252R91 / 76510C91 – National 416444
Rear Axle Felt Seal (2) – 43720D
Belt Pulley Felt Seal – 49133D
Pinion Cage Seals (2) – 4222D
GASKETS:
Axle Seal Cap Gasket (2): 1342399C1
Top Cover Gasket: 48686D
PTO Assembly Gasket: 1342394C1
Countershaft Seal Carrier Gasket: 1342395C1
Input Shaft Seal Carrier Gasket: 47896D
Input Shaft Bearing Carrier Gasket: 1342396C1
Axle Housing Gasket (2): 49789D
Belt Pulley Drive Shaft Cover Gasket: 54538D (no avail)
Belt Pulley housing to top cover Gasket: 49619DA/1342401C1
Belt Pulley Drive Shaft Bushing: 49143D (Discontinued)
Transmission Bearings:
Axle bearings:
Inner – ST227B (New Departure 1212AG)
Outer – ST328A
Mainshaft Bearings:
Rear: ST293 (Also lists a 309)
Pilot – 43356DA or Hyatt U1205
Input Shaft Bearings:
Inner Bearing – ST206
Outer Bearing – ST247 (also states will work for ST248-A. Lists a superceeding number of 40031 as a replacement for # ST247/ST248-A)
Countershaft (lower shaft) Bearings:
Rear – ST202 (Also lists 209BB)
Front – ST246 (Also lists 206L)
Pinion Shaft Bearings:
ST201 (also lists PB38)
Differential Carrier Bearings:
ST227B (Also lists 1212AG New Departure – same as inner axle bearings)
Likes: 125
Views: 1847
If that ring and pinion didn't come in that transmission/rear end case you most likely were going to be adjusting the shim pack anyways.
kenny do yourself a favor get the farmall H service manual to set the ring aand pinion up.
There is NO set number of shims on each side of the differential or on the pinion. If you have to start over from scratch as you did not keep track of your shims, here is what you do. Install differential with equal thickness of shims on each side with pinion removed. . Add or remove shims until you have no side load on bearings which you will determine by having just a little bit of side movement of differential, like .010(as these are ball bearings and cannot be loaded). Now you install pinion with enough shims so the butt end of pinion and ring gear are flush. You will have to shuffle shims back and forth on differential to obtain that. Now, you want (this is if gears are new) about .006 to .012 back lash between ring and pinion gears. This is measured with a dial indicator on the very tip of ring gear tooth with pinion held solid. You will need input shaft installed also so pinion is in normal operating position.
But , here comes the rub. You are working with used gears that have established a pattern. To get back to that same wear pattern is very difficult. When I tear one down that I intend to reuse gears I measure the backlash before removing unless of course a bearing is completely shelled out. Even if there is a lot of back lash, I attempt to reset to same when putting it back together.
You can use tooth contact readings with Prussian blue or grease , or some other suitable material but you have to have the experienced eye to know what you are looking for. Good luck.
That is really looking good now but don't get rid of all the farmall whine.
I think you already know but.. when you use two seals be sure to grease in between them..
I believe you covered that in a different video though..
Thanks so much for this video, very helpful! I have a question, the ball bearing on the bull pinion shaft, the one you can see by looking into the bull pinion cage from the outside, what is the part number on that and the larger on to the inside of the bull pinion shaft? Thank you so much. I am currently in the process of restoring my Farmall H as well.
Thanks Ken, great info for Farmall folks!
What no fold over lock tab on the reverse idler shaft! Perpoterous. (:
Hi Kenny,I have a dumb question.Does the bolt holding the idler shaft in place need to be torqued? Great video Thanks
Great video Kenny. I just found a super H in really good shape for $200, a true barn find. I would love to do a full restoration in the future on it, and now I can because of your videos. Thanks
Last year when I did a bunch of work on my dad's M I thought maybe I should have been writing seal numbers/ bearing numbers down and never give it a second thought.
Now that I've seen a bunch of squatches videos and yours I'm kicking myself in the butt a little.
I do have all the receipts of the parts that I picked up I'm keeping them all in a folder.
Any more work, I will be getting a tablet and writing down all the part numbers and what I did..