In the video, 1A Auto shows how to remove and replace sections of damaged, split, frayed, or exposed wire by splicing in new wire.

🔧 List of tools used:
• Crimper
• Wire Cutters
• Butt Connectors
• Electrical Tape
• Heat Shrink Tubing
• Heat Gun

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While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.

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  1. ABQSentinel

    Wouldn't solder and heat-shrink tubing be a preferable method of repair?

  2. suthon sakolsinsngapong

    Is it better to use hair dryer instead of flame torch?
    I saw the burn on shrinking tube, that is no good.
    Another method, if we have no splice,
    we can twist wires together and soldering them.
    (smooth the surfaces, if there are any sharp edges of conductor (by scissor or cut-able tools, otherwise they will cut the tape and shrinking tube).
    Then, tape them about 2 layers,
    then use shrinking tube to cover them again(in order to protect moisture as the instructor said).

  3. Abraham Alejandro Morgado

    i think soldering its a better and more solid repair, also regular electric pvc tape is not recommended for high temps.

  4. shawn lessieur

    Did u buy replacement wire from the auto store ?

  5. Alfred V

    Regular electric tape is 185F, while 3M Scoth tape 33+ and many other better tapes by the same mfr are 221F. The wire loom also is rated to 257F, so the the tape is being insulated. The engine itself only gets to 220F approx (exhaust can be 500F range)……so you will be okay. You can use PRIMARY WIRE (rated at 185F). The engine area does not get as hot as you think, and if it did, you would not even be able to touch the battery, cap on brake fluid bottle, or windshield fluid bottle. As long as no direct contact with the engine. For tape, try getting Tesa 51026 tape, which is designed for engine harness work…..if you can find it. I prefer solder, but often there is no room, so crimping works best. I would not use his crimping tool….next step up is Channel Lock 909, or a ratcheting tool (Klein, or Titan crimp tool). Klein are better. Many like Titan, only $20 right now at Princess Auto (Canada). However, sometimes you want to use Channel Lock 909, because it has a smaller head and gets into tighter spots. Also the channel lock has INSULATED and NON INSULATED…..and for the crimps he used (Insulated)…..many people prefer using the channel lock on the non-insulated mode (it really tightens it down). Only issue is some butt connectors with heat shrink feature might tear, try test sample, and if it does tear, then use the insulated portion of the channel lock plier. On the other hand, you can put heat shrink over it and have double safety. Some people also like to add at the ends of the heat shrink a dab of Permatex Liquid Tape. It also saves a lot of time, on little repairs where bare wire is exposed….and has a temperature rating of -50F to 275F. Scotty Kilmer loves liquid tape, but uses a different brand. Before using, apply steel wool if wire is oxidized, if wire is dirty, wipe down with isopropyl alcohol….and apply at least 2 coats. This is amazing stuff. If you have a heat gun, use that over a torch….less chance of burning the wire, and a better job. I'm not a auto wiring professional doing wiring all day long, but have read and done enough jobs as needed.

  6. David Williams

    What if wires have gotten cut a couple of wires in my harness got cut on my 2010 Toyota Carolla LE

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