[bsa_pro_ad_space id=14]
This Toyota Really Pisses Me Off, DIY and car repair with Scotty Kilmer. This Toyota has a serious problem. Toyota problems with automatic belt tensioners. How to remove automatic belt tensioner. Things that make me mad and angry. Problems with Toyota. Car advice. DIY car repair with Scotty Kilmer, an auto mechanic for the last 51 years.
⬇️Scotty’s Top DIY Tools:
1. Bluetooth Scan Tool:
2. Mid-Grade Scan Tool:
3. My Fancy (Originally $5,000) Professional Scan Tool:
4. Cheap Scan Tool:
5. Basic Mechanic Tool Set:
6. Professional Socket Set:
7. Ratcheting Wrench Set:
8. No Charging Required Car Jump Starter:
9. Battery Pack Car Jump Starter:
⬇️ Things used in this video:
1. Common Sense
2. 4k Camera:
3. Camera Microphone:
4. Camera Tripod:
5. My computer for editing / uploading:
?Check out the tools I use and highly recommend ►
?Scotty Shirts and Merch ►
Subscribe and hit the notification bell! ►
Scotty on Social:
Facebook ►
Instagram ►
Twitter ►
This is the people’s automotive channel! The most honest and funniest car channel on YouTube. Never any sponsored content, just the truth about everything! Learn how to fix your car and how it works. Get a chance to show off your own car on Sundays. Or show off your own car mod on Wednesdays. Tool giveaways every Monday to help you with your own car projects. We have a new video every day! I’ve been an auto mechanic for the past 50 years and I’m here to share my knowledge with you.
►Here’s our weekly video schedule:
Monday: Tool giveaway
Tuesday: Auto repair video
Wednesday: Viewers car mod show off
Thursday: Viewer Car Question Video AND Live Car Q&A
Friday: Auto repair video
Saturday: Second Live Car Q&A
Sunday: Viewers car show off
►Second Daily Upload Every Afternoon of Live Car Q&A videos as well!
Scotty Kilmer is a participant in the Amazon Influencer Program.
#savagescotty
[bsa_pro_ad_space id=15]
Likes: 2901
Views: 20559
I don't like the look of that brake fluid leak under the abs pump
Scotty your saying it wrong its a wrong Man.
What we going to do if Scotty stops entertaining us !??
I threw out the idler pulley, tensioner pulley, a/c compressor, and power steering pump. Then I put bigger pulleys on the alternator and water pump, and added a slotted alternator adjustment arm from an old '60s Chevy. Now there are only three pulleys in the entire accessory drive system and it has a simple, never-fail manual adjustment.
The older I get the more I am afraid of buying newer generation cars…lol
Scotty,
I have a 1997 Ford F150 Extended Bed, so it has the 2 piece driveshaft with the center carrier bearing. It also has an 8.8 open carrier rear end with a 3.55 gear ratio. The Truck had a Vibration that started at 35 MPH and it would go away around 55 MPH. I put the back on jack stands and ran it and the vibration was still there. I removed both driveshafts and ran it again and the vibration went away. I replaced the U-Joints and center carrier bearing and reinstalled the first half of the driveshaft and ran it to 55 MPH and no vibration. I replaced the U-Joints on the second half of the driveshaft and replaced the outside rear axle bearings and seals. I was about to close up the differential when I noticed inside the differential that the 2 side axle gears and the 2 spider gears and retaining pin has a lot of backlash with wear. Now I'm wondering if these worn spider gears could have been causing the vibration. I have read that some people have had bad experiences replacing these spider gears, where the new gears broke and locked up the rear end. The Ford synthetic 75 W 140 is $75.00 to refill the pumpkin, so I'm thinking if I don't change the gears and the truck vibrates then I'll lose $75.00 worth of oil to go back in and replace the spiders or if it doesn't vibrate then it's fixed and I didn't have to replace the spiders.
I also inspected the ring and pinion and they look good with hardly any wear and no additional movement other than a slight backlash which I understand is necessary. Scotty what would you do… Replace the spiders or close it up?
Yup I was trying to change my belt and that molded steel nut sheared right off as soon as I put the wrench on it. Definitely very cheap steel so I took it to a shop and my mechanic had to put an assembly from another Toyota to make it work
Only belt tensioner I've had to replace was on a Ford minivan. It was an old klunker I bought where it had "broken down" when the belt broke. Also when the belt broke, the spring loaded tensioner snapped back hard enough to break the part so that it could no longer be pulled back to allow a belt to go on. I had to Google an illustration of how the belt went around everything. Still, an old beater for $400 + a tow home + the cost of the new belt and tensioner.
see the big umbrella at the end – Mr.Scotty is ready for anything ??
my belt snapped on a peugeot once, it bent my valves so the car went to the scrapyard