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Likes: 975
Views: 15436
i do enjoy your explanations. as someone who only lasted at school till i was 14 and rarely attended, i did miss out on a lot. luckily i have always enjoyed learning since then.
Correct calibration demo
This was interesting and makes perfect sense. I never thought about it. Thank you.
I bought and my Snap-On torque wrench 40 years ago to work on my motorcycles. I have always had plenty of room when I use it.
I have always stored all my torque wrenches in the case, in my toolbox. For both my torque wrenches and torque screwdrivers I always store them with tension on the spring backed off (set to very light torque or zero). Backing off the spring tension has always seemed like a good idea to me, but I haver not looked into it in detail. There are times one of my my torque wrenches will sit unused for up to fifteen years. Am I wasting my time backing off the spring tension?
Dont use your torque wrench while holding it short of the handle (choking). It over tightens. Youre welcome.
The correct torque setting for any nut is “hear nut crack, quarter turn back”
Sorry John, you are wrong. Yes, the poition of your hand means you have changed the amont of force being applied, but the relationship of the drive, to the tube pivot, to the clicky thing has not. So if nothing else has changed the click will happen at the same force as applied to the drive as before.
Really torquing up the talk…
Great info as usual, but a 5 minute clip would have been adequate….😊
If you work on modern cars often, you’ll find tons of fasteners you cannot get a regular ratchet on without a swivel socket, let alone a bulky torque wrench, so what’s the point! Why do they even bother providing torque specs if they don’t leave room to fit a torque wrench properly?!
Great advice for all DIY types….out there .
Calibrate video