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In this episode we try a bunch of stuff to repair an engine on the cheap – that actually works!
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Likes: 2447
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Grab some G54 merch here –
In this episode we try a bunch of stuff to repair an engine on the cheap – that actually works!
Our instagram
Likes: 2447
Views: 36480
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i've done this a lot! perfect methode is making the nr8 with it while sanding, and you dont want a mirror finish, the fine scratches prevent oil and water coming through. but they must be in the opposite direction towards the front and back. not the sides
suggestion: Next time you change a head gasket try using LEATHER to make the gasket!!!!!
This was great. The windshield washer motor was just pure ingenuity. The piston rings probably didn't seal, because they machined them wrong. At 11:40 you can see the ring has a visible gap against the cylinder wall (not the end gap). This is caused because when the oversize ring was compressed during installation, it didn't retain a circular shape and bent unevenly. They should have machined the rings first to cylinder diameter, then cut the gap(with a thin dremel cutting disc) and then expand them. I think this would ensure that the ring is fully the round shape of the cylinder when installed. But also might be that mild steel will not work, because it does not have enough "springiness".
The rings need a slant cut on them on the piston side. When they go to compress, the rings get forced outward to seal against the cylinder. Without that, they wont function properly.
the compression rings have a champfer in the inner ring so when you get the air/fuel ignited it goes behind the rings and pushes them out onto the cylinder wall.This is what happens if you put piston rings upside down or in this case dont make a piston ring champfer for the gasses to push the ring out.
piston ring champfer – Bing images
I'm wondering if the cylinders were oval shaped and that's why it didn't seal, or if was something like they didn't have enough spring in them.
Back in the day, we used to grind heads using a plate glass piece and either a large or long piece of wet and dry or Chemico grinding paste. You found the high spots with some engineers blue on the head mating face squeezed onto the glass and did the medium paste or paper first to get a good "level" by placing the wet and dry face up on the glass and your worked the head in a figure of 8, then went with a superfine grade of paper or paste after blue checking the head to be uniform flat and you again figure of 8'd it a few times and you could put a true straight edge on it and perfectly flat every time. Ford UK's Pinto or Kent engine you could literally get a couple of HP just by truing up the mating faces because Ford's machining was somewhat lacking in quality, Jags also had some wonky machining on the block and head faces and a Mini you could get a very fine feeler in between block and head but the car would be running OK and amazing how perky the engines behaved after truing the mating faces.
Try welding the cyl head to the block
Sounds like a race engine👌
Would of been nice to see if the starter would start it once it was warmed up a bit but great video 👍