This week, Davin wraps up our three-part mini-series on prepping an engine block for the machine shop. In the first episode, Davin taught you how to read micrometers. In the second episode, we put those skills to the test when measuring the cylinder bores of our current Redline Rebuild project. This third and final episode is an explanation of what we discovered in the previous episode, tips on cleaning up the engine block, and what the machine shop will want to know.
Ep. 1 – How to read micrometers:
Ep. 2 – Measuring Cylinder Bores:
#DIY #DavinReckow #Engineprep
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Likes: 1482
Views: 18464
Masterclass with professor Davin. I find every clip most informative so just keep'em commin. Shoutout to the cameraman also.
Great, Thanks for sharing Davin👍
Yup 👍 something always goes haywire; never fails
I allways aspired to be that Dude that does everything himself. But the processes in a machine shop are So expensive hardware wise that i don't think thats ever gonna happen.
I was taught to use a ridge reamer before popping out the pistons. I understand that you all never will have to reuse pistons, but Id like to see you demonstrate the use of one for the new kids next time you do a tear down.
Davin your a Genius!
Wish I had known this 2 years ago. RIP old car.
GM blocks in partiular main tunnels are always 'woppy' The factory has undersize and oversize bearings to fix that. But not available in the aftermarket. And they work fine for normal use. All manufacturers do this. But not 9 thou under as I have experienced!! That was the crank however and I got a way with a 10thou shell.This also applies to the cranks.
When you disassemble read the shells. They will be marked with oversize or undersize. Ideally put a straight edge or verified straight bar to check the tunnel.
Then get it line bored!!
Most other brands you MAY get away with, but again read the shells.
Most cranks ideally require a polish if that is the case you will lose 1/4 of a thou and possibly more
Profiling the blocks water and oil journals is always good to do before taking it to the machine shop so all those chards of metal are also washed out.. I also do my oil pump mating and enlarging before the block goes for cleaning.. All that outside flash is also nice to remove. Not only because the block looks far better, but in some cases it may save you from stitches!!
Another step you may consider is to chemically clean the cooling system before disassembly. Of course the engine needs to be running. There are products out there that will dissolved all that corrosion. I use Liquid Intelligence 239, comes up like new. It was originally designed to clear out rust in the buick straight 8 block.