Rust removal and repair. Repairing rust on your car is something that should be done quickly to prevent it from spreading. It can be easily done without welding, …
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Rust removal and repair. Repairing rust on your car is something that should be done quickly to prevent it from spreading. It can be easily done without welding, …
Comments are closed.
People complaining because this isn't "the right way to do it". Sure fabricating new sections and welding them into place may be the best repair but I don't think thats the point of this video. It shows an option for someone to repair this themselves when they don't have the money for a bodyshop to do it for them.
Keep up the good work Chris, I've learned so much from changing my own oil to changing my brake pads/disks just from following your videos. Thank you!
Those saying this wont last. I did a shitty job on a car years ago, its still not rusted. My finish product looked terrible in comparison, I had no idea what I was doing. Now that car has 340,000 miles on the clock. I bet my repair will outlast the engine. I think it was about 10 years ago when I fixed it.
Wheel well lines don't match up but other than that not bad.Keep up the great work!!!
Bro thanks for the video!!! I just bought a 01 Maxima with some rust on the wheel wells. I'm gonna fix that this week!!
Is that an enamel or lacquer clear coat??
Wow. Im very amazed. Great video..
amazing video
Good video. I bought a car with repair on it body filler and the paint doesn’t match that well and it’s not shiny. Would a body shop work with what’s there or start over ?
I've seen this video 3 times, and it encourages me to do it to my own car 🙂 I have been sceptical to do this for a while now, but it's better to have an ugly paintjob than rust
This is legit no matter what the shouty old man farts out of his mouth.
Years ago, I have done exactly this on my 80's Honda's rear wheel well. I did use rust converter after removing surface rust. I believe that really helped.
Back then, I did not have access to the 3M mesh or anything close to that. So I just used fiberglass filler for the corner (I know, lazy..). Rest of the steps are exactly the same as Chrisfix showed. It lasted for about 4 years until the area started bubble again. Hey, I say that's worth it! And that was in Chicago!
Remember, we're not restoring a precious classic here. And nothing lasts forever. Even if you were to cut a metal piece and weld it, you still need to bondo (exactly as Chrisfix showed). And you know what? The rust eventually develops at weld seams anyway. Because there always are cavities where moisture can occur where body work is done.
Now, depending on the quality of the body/weld work and other circumstances and factors, rust may be delayed lot longer or appear even quicker, or never reappear at the welds.
So, for your common cars, Chrisfix's method is well worth it. Not only you'll save good chunk of cash, you'll feel proud.