In this video I am going to not only show you how to repair peeling, chipped or worn out clear coat. I am going to show you how to do a spot repair and blend the new clear coat into the old clear coat. Some might call this a Hack but they will be disgruntled body shop workers :0 joking aside, this is not a long lasting repair and your results will vary based on how bad the clear coat damage is on your car and how much discoloration has resulted on your base coat.
Here are links to products which were used in this video:
Links to Products on Amazon:
My Car Wash Soap:
Microfiber Towel:
Gray Scotch Brite Pad:
1″ Masking Tape:
Blue Shop Towels:
2K Clear Coat:
Painters Respirator:
1500 Grit Sand Paper:
7″ Polisher:
Wool Pad:
Medium Grit Rubbing Compound:
Links to Products on Ebay:
2K Clear Coat:
My Car Wash Soap:
Gray Scotch Brite Pad:
1″ Masking Tape:
Painters Respirator:
1500 Grit Sand Paper:
7″ Polisher:
Wool Pad:
Medium Grit Rubbing Compound:
Facebook:
Twitter:
Instagram:
Here are some other video’s you may find interesting:
How to Restore Head Lights:
How to Remove Scratches From Your Car:
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of Ratchets and Wrenches, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Ratchets and Wrenches assumes no liability for any property or personal damage that may arise from doing a repair on your vehicle after watching any of my repair video’s. Due to factors beyond the control of Ratchets and Wrenches, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Again Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Ratchets and Wrenches.
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How much would this normally cost for someone else to do it for me?
Excellent Instruction> I wish all people were so to the point and detailed!
My Liberty has very little clearcoat left.
You would have been better off to just clear all the way to the bottom of the pillar.
if you roll the nozzle (roll the can) unidirectionally along the blend area while you're painting the clear, and don't use the cloth/tape at the blend edge, while adding garbage bags to cover more of the old clear & glass area, you won't need to blend using the buffer nearly as much, because the clear will already be "blended". The blend area will be longer, but will also be less noticeable, requiring more surface area to be covered with the rubbing compound, but it will give a better effect in the end. You'd have to use a bright light up close to see the difference. Still not pro shop worthy, but better than this. Not trying to be a dick and tell you you did the wrong thing, just offering more insight. Nice video though, very clear and easy to follow, with no BS.
Half ass job. Paint the entire car. That looks like shit