How to PROPERLY Undercoat A Rusted Car or Truck. In this video we are going to go over the proper application of a Lanolin based undercoat on a vehicle with existing surface rust on it. We are going to cover why traditional paints and rubberized undercoating fails, why Lanolin is a much better option for undercoating vehicles, and the process required to properly undercoat your car or truck. I will also answer frequently asked questions about Fluid Film, Surface Shield, Woolwax applications.
Here are the tools that I used in this video:
Wire Brushes (small):
Wire Brushes (large):
Needle Scaler:
Surface Finisher:
Surface Finisher Wire brush:
Bulk Products: (Compressed air required)
Professional Spray Gun:
Graphite Powder (Turns clear products black):
Surface Shield:
Fluid Film:
Woolwax:
Aerosol Products:
Spray Can Handles:
Inner cavity tool:
Inner cavity Adapter (Surface Shield only):
Surface Shield:
Fluid Film:
Woolwax:
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00:00 Introduction
1:31 How to stop rust
2:32 Why traditional paint/rubber undercoating fails
3:44 Why Lanolin/Petrolum undercoating works better
4:27 What about painting first then applying Lanolin?
5:30 Coating internal surfaces
6:34 What about cosmoline?
9:24 What product is “best”?
11:43 Equipment needed to spray bulk product
13:43 Aerosol attachments
14:56 Vehicle that we will be coating
15:46 Equipment needed to prep a rusted vehicle
17:46 How to prepare the rust
19:23 Body plug removal
19:56 How I spray the vehicle
22:59 Results after spraying clear undercoating. Reapply in a week or so.
24:13 What about GM wax frames?
25:14 Do I mask off anything before I spray/Issues with rubber???
25:53 Do I wash the bottom of the vehicle?
27:20 Still have questions? Make a comment!
Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user Repair Geek makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. Repair Geek shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by Repair Geek and therefore, Repair Geek does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge Repair Geek or anyone affiliated with Repair Geek, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law.
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I assume there are businesses that do this professionally a bit farther north than I am. I live in central Kentucky at the bottom of the salt belt. 75 miles north in Cincinnati, all the 10+ year old used cars have rusted frames and many of them have stage IV car cancer, with black paint sprayed over bubbling rust that's destroyed truck frames. I wish I had access to a lift. Undercoating a vehicle is much harder without one.
For home gamers without a lift, elevating the vehicle as high as possible on four jack stands makes the job a bit less hassle, and that would be a good time to change the oil, replace the brakes, install a lift kit, etc.
Thank you,thank you, thank you!
Could use a compact air needle scaler to get into those rusted areas. Works well at getting the rust off and prepping areas hard to get to.
I👍nteresting. Coupla things. Face mask because all that metallic particulate floating around your breathing air is reallllly bad for your eyes AND your lungs. A 3M face shield, maybe. Easy breezy & you're not always squinting & hacking at night. There's a sawzall brush that would exponentially speed up that process, and allow easy access to tighter spaces. Just sayin'.
Good job, very thorough and helpful video.
I frequently run my truck on the beach and find sand in all sorts of areas on the frame that I hose off. Would you still recommend not washing the frame off? I would imagine that the products would attract so much sand and be an eye sore no?
Have you used CRC 06026 and what do you think about it?
Regarding cosmoline, CRC requires 2 coats 24hrs apart for complete coverage
I just had my Suburban "done". Had em put it back on the lift so I could look at it. Like anything else its only as good as the person doing the job. $ 200 bucks, best estimate they spent 45 minutes with it, and they missed a shit ton of spots never mind the inside of the frame or prep work. WTF. Left em a 20 buck tip before they did the job and everything.