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Here’s a detailed video showing you how to make polyurethane engine and transmission mounts from liquid polyurethane.
The advantages of doing this as opposed to buying ready made aftermarket polyurethane engine mounts are that this method is much cheaper (25 USD for 4 mounts vs. 160 USD for 2 mounts in the case of my car).
The advantages of polyurethane engine (especially torque mounts) are improved responsiveness, no need to replace the mounts ever again, reduced wheel hop and preventing horsepower lost on moving the engine back and forth.
The video shows a detailed procedure, from removing the old mount inserts, burning out the rubber, and pouring in new liquid polyurethane. The product I used is reoflex 60 from smooth-on. There are many others out there however, this is just what was available to me and in the right shore hardness.
The additional benefit of DIY mounts is the fact that you can customize the shore hardness of the mounts to make it best suited to your particular application. I have selected 60A shore hardness which is a nice compromise between the 80A shore hardness stuff which is more suited to track day cars and the 40A shore hardness stock rubber.
The important thing is to ensure the pins inside the mounts are fitted in the same position as stock and they must be positioned to stand flat for the liquid polyurethane to cure properly. Think in advance about where the polyurethane will be drying as this is where the engine mounts will be sitting for anywhere between 16-48 hours depending on the tempereture and liquid polyurethane product/brand.
Check out my blog for more MR2 mk1, 4AGE, DIY and more fun car stuff:
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The one u pick up a 14.29 is not centered
They dont make polyurethane mounts for my car so i have to make them so thanks for the tutorial
I've removed the old ones by using a thick metal disk that came from a lamp base, shaving it down to the size of the outer ring and putting a big bolt through it to the other side with a larger diameter pipe and just pressing it out by tightening the bolt. You can use a sawzall coming from the inside if you do that you want to shave most but not all of it out. Use a screwdriver to drive the two sides of the cut apart. Most of these mounts are aluminum they wont take lots of shock. If you're crying about the factory mounts allowing motion…thats for driver comfort when you're marketing something its all about vibration, harshness and noise. Most people dont want to break their eggs and taco shells taking a corner that hard
Custom race dash
A must try 4 me
A couple of questions please…?
Is the dye anything special ??
How do u set the shore rating ??
Are there different formulations available ??
Re. the cardboard sticking… petroleum jelly should make a good DIY release agent…
Nice vid…. thanks for your efforts man … ??
I have to say next time I need a carrier bearing insulator for a drive line I'm going to do this. New carrier bearings are $185 up to over $1000 if you can even get one it's in my experience almost always the rubber insulator that rots and not the bearing. In my old Datsun I would of had to get a new driveline made to get a carrier bearing. So I cut up a mudflap and wrapped the carrier bearing every couple years I had to rewrap it . But this man im going to try it.
Great idea but It1s not so flexible than the original one. Please do not waste paper! Could have used old newspaper or ect. instead of printpaper!