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Here’s a detailed video showing you how to make polyurethane engine and transmission mounts from liquid polyurethane.
The advantages of doing this as opposed to buying ready made aftermarket polyurethane engine mounts are that this method is much cheaper (25 USD for 4 mounts vs. 160 USD for 2 mounts in the case of my car).
The advantages of polyurethane engine (especially torque mounts) are improved responsiveness, no need to replace the mounts ever again, reduced wheel hop and preventing horsepower lost on moving the engine back and forth.
The video shows a detailed procedure, from removing the old mount inserts, burning out the rubber, and pouring in new liquid polyurethane. The product I used is reoflex 60 from smooth-on. There are many others out there however, this is just what was available to me and in the right shore hardness.
The additional benefit of DIY mounts is the fact that you can customize the shore hardness of the mounts to make it best suited to your particular application. I have selected 60A shore hardness which is a nice compromise between the 80A shore hardness stuff which is more suited to track day cars and the 40A shore hardness stock rubber.
The important thing is to ensure the pins inside the mounts are fitted in the same position as stock and they must be positioned to stand flat for the liquid polyurethane to cure properly. Think in advance about where the polyurethane will be drying as this is where the engine mounts will be sitting for anywhere between 16-48 hours depending on the tempereture and liquid polyurethane product/brand.
Check out my blog for more MR2 mk1, 4AGE, DIY and more fun car stuff:
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dove si compra e quanto costa?
Yeah if you would of poured a little wax in the bottom instead of the cardboard they would look better and it releases really well. I've used wax for a ton of molding before. Never thought about the liquid poly for making mounts though. Good idea bud.
hello could you insert the link where to buy the 2 components plus the colorant? thanks so much beautiful video
Could you not drill the rubber out?
Thanks for this video. I have a 1996 Riviera with a bad motor mount that is impossible to replace. They simply are not available, and even the used ones from salvage yards are all so old that the rubber is gone. But repairing my motor mount using this method sounds like just the thing I need to do. Thanks again.
How long did they work
what chemicals do you use to create polyurethane?
Hello there, could you tell the diameter and width of the MR2 engine mounting please? It looks as if it would be perfect solution for my Humber's rear leaf spring front bush. Great video.
bla..bla..
Watch the follow-up video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mBYhdLsQqug
To skip the intro where I explain everything you need to know about poly mounts go to 4:00 where I start taking out the old ones and pouring new ones in.
Since a lot of people are asking this: The product I used is Reoflex 60 from Smooth-On. https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/reoflex/
I am not in any way sponsored, endorsed, supported, etc. by this company. This info is also in the video description but no one reads that apparently 🙂 There's a lot more good options in terms of liquid urethane out there probably. If you don't want to burn the old rubber and measure the pin position I suggest just filling the gaps of your existing mounts with 3M window weld. It will yield results very similar to what I achieved in this video and it will be less work. I am also not affiliated, endorsed, supported etc. by 3M.