In this video I have a look at a guys Chevrolet Silverado. He states he can not get the front brake rotor off no matter how much he beats on it. Let’s have a look. -Enjoy!
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained.
Likes: 37755
Views: 1025024
Just finished what should have been a 40 minute rear brake pad/rotor replacement on a 16 Chevy Silverado, that was 4 hrs ago fml. Chevy caliper slide pins are a pain in the arse when the get seized! 1 snapped pin, multiple drill bits later, heat and an easy out and VOILA! I don't understand why the caliper bracked is not sold separately here in Canada! I would have trashed the old one in a heart beat to save 3 hrs of cursing and swearing. YUP, one of many mistakes made in the past.
That is so funny 😁 did not take the screws out😂
Tools and knowledge are so cool
That's why I watch Youtube University first. Great job!
Just spent 4+ hours removing the rear rotors on my sons 94 LS400 those puppies were welded on. Heat, hammer, air chisel, lube lube and more lube and a custom made push tool. And yes we removed the set screws.
Just did the front brakes on my 2017 Chevy Volt (87K) a few weeks ago and managed to break BOTH of the torx bolts off with a socket wrench. Turned them out nice and slow and totally thought they were unscrewing, then *PLOP*! Not like they are going anywhere once assembled, but man that’s frustrating. I do feel bad for the poor guy, not realizing they were there!
My stupidest mistake was when i replaced the clutch on my (now at the junkyard) saturn wagon.
Worked at Jiffy Lube briefly to keep bills paid while other things were lining up so we figured we (coworker and I) would use the lift and lower bay after closing to make it easy.
So the clutch engaged right off the floor, and it was hard to shift. Bad pressure plate. I was sure of it.
Ordered a clutch kit from Exedy, waited for it to come in, pulled the car in after work, got to it. Not super rusty because it was a Utah car but anyway.
I was running on fumes by the time we turned the key. The car wouldnt go in gear with the clutch in and would roll if you started it with the clutch in AND in gear. Interesting.
In my state of exhaustion, i put the throwout bearing in backwards.
Spent four hours that night undoing everything, flipping it around, buttoning it up, and it was all good.
Pay attention to parts orientation, folks.
i have found that whenever im doing a job and its not going well i should just start over, clear my head, think of multiple ways to approach the problem, consult the internet, consult with someone, THEN get back to work, the job gets done most of the time and i dont get stressed. The owner should've asked someone, checked youtube or whatever. Also if you think your question is dumb, 90
% of the time it isn't, you're dumb because you dont ask it, no one was born knowing stuff.
I have one of those rusty GM trucks. It a 2012 and only has 80,000 miles on it and I have had several issues with it from a rusted through frame rear end issues the radio read out only works half the time.
Doesn't pounding on the rotors damage the wheel bearings?