Not every job that comes into the shop is a big complicated repair or diagnosis. Sometimes it is just customers bad luck with junk parts. This is just the case here in this video.
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Walmarts best battery is the best battery, and usually alot cheaper.
Pretty much all batteries are now coming with garbage warranties. They make the batteries where you can't maintain them, then shorten the warranties. I spent extra for a NAPA Triple-A branded battery that can be maintained, as well as has a solid warranty, and comes from a slightly better build company. (There are only two companies building them in the US)
Hard to figure things out with out the real story. Honda civics common to have fused AC clutch relays.
I had a similar complaint on a Volvo. Mom and teen daughter drove the car and battery would die with mom.and she drove shorter trips but daughter drove 20 miles to comm. College. My testing found a broken exciter/warning light wire behind alternator. The alternator on most makes needs that feed to start charging at low revs on start. With no exciter feed the alternator has to see 3000 or more engine revs for the faint residual magnetism of rotor to push a little current in stator. Once that ever happens the alternator functions normal until engine is stopped. Daughter drove sporty and mom was poky. Mom was wearing out jumper cables and daughter blew it out on every drive and all was good.
Even if it's a cheap battery it would last longer then6 months! probably the battery was defective!or wrong battery!
Eric, some of the reference books for battery replacement cross reference list the wrong replacement battery for a given vehicle, a good example are listings from AAA, who at the roadside, will replace the battery over and over again with the wrong battery because that is what the book lists, even though you can clearly see it is way too small for the tray. Then, as with this customer, the owner will eventually seek out professional help because the stand time is ridiculously short and will get shorter when it gets colder.
However, you stated in the video, the customer has been to two shops before you, which is hard to believe. Most mechanics will quickly recognize that the battery is not filling out the tray and is way too short for the hold down hardware where someone has put washers in to keep the battery in place.
Do not trust the SOC calculation from the battery charger / maintainer, it gave 90%, where the internal impedance meter gave about 63%. For nuclear charging in the shop, if the battery is not damaged, like a shorted cell, set the bulk charge amperage at C/10 amp rate (C in Ah, stay below the max charging voltage for the battery type flooded or AGM) if the battery is disconnected from the car you can max out the voltage.
Charging when connected to the vehicle (sometimes the battery is buried in the trunk) you have to be mindful that a manual fast rate does not produce significant noise on the system (even if charged at the battery or very near for the NEG lead) if below the maximum charging voltage but at a high charging amperage. The majority of newer chargers on high current will produce a lot of switching noise due to their design. The switching approach can get very strange with peak-to-peak noise of 1 or 2 volts.
Batteries can fail when charging, for flooded batteries the battery electrolyte should be at the full level or slightly below. It is best to monitor the battery temperature if possible, and if it is getting hot while charging, disconnect the charger and replace the battery.
The best you will be able to do in the winter in the PRNY, where most lead acid starting batteries are chronically undercharged and abused by the cold, is to fast bulk charge which will take perhaps 4 hours for a dead battery. To do a proper full charge (bulk (usually constant current), absorption (usually constant voltage, float (low noise constant voltage)) it will take something like 12 hours when the battery is at room temperature, which is a huge amount of time for a shop with limited space. You could charge outside, but the equipment should not be unattended, which also is not workable for a small shop. The sad truth is, it takes a considerable amount of time to fully charge a dead lead-acid starting battery.
When receiving a new battery for replacement, I like to do the following:
1) Take an open battery terminal voltage measurement with your DMM. What you are looking for is a dead or damaged battery voltage. If the battery is bad or completely dead, your done, get a replacement.
2) Clean the battery posts (if a top post battery) and fully charge the battery. Which should be relatively quick if it is new and charged from the supplier.
3) If fully charged use an internal battery impedance tester (like the one you have, I have one from Midtronics which for an out of vehicle test is very reliable) and if fully charged, print out the test results for the customer as proof that it is new and charged. If not fully charged try charging again, rarely will a new battery not take a charge. It can happen if the battery has been abused.
4) Inspect the vehicle battery cables for corrosion and/or damage and clean the vehicle battery lugs, also clean any acid residue present in the tray.
5) Install the battery and attach the battery to the vehicle negative last. Then test the vehicle for parasitic draw, starting and alternator charging.
After battery installation you can also seal the battery connections if you want. I use NOCO brush on sealant its much more controllable than the spray. If I use a spray I use a paper shop towel around the post so as to not get is on the battery. For the hold down hardware corrosion I have been using Liquid Wrench Penetrant+Lubricant I use it to free up the hardware, and then use it to soak the hardware in a plastic tray while I swap the battery, then I remove any excess and install in the vehicle.
I tend not to use the battery terminal protectors (the round felt disks) much anymore because the newer battery plastic post design seems to be very short, and if you install a pad it can interfere with the lug seating properly.
Thank you for the video! Learn a lot from your electrical troubleshooting. I do wonder though, when you received the new battery, did you happen to test it? Or charge the old one and retest? Just curious because it was not mentioned. Thanks again for another great video, always look forward to your content.
I haven't replaced many batteries in my cars but when I did I always bought the biggest that'd fit, with the most CCAs and longest warranty. Not cheap, but maybe that's part of the reason I've changed them so seldom. Better to spend €150 on one battery than €90 twice
I have had more crap with Diehard batteries lately. I just did this exact thing on a Chevy Sonic, battery was roughly 8 months old and it would need a jump after sitting for a day and a half. I could not find any unwanted draw so I had the battery warrantied. So far the customer says everything is working as intended.
Just so you're aware, your horn scared the shit out of me.