How to PROPERLY Undercoat A Rusted Car or Truck. In this video we are going to go over the proper application of a Lanolin based undercoat on a vehicle with existing surface rust on it. We are going to cover why traditional paints and rubberized undercoating fails, why Lanolin is a much better option for undercoating vehicles, and the process required to properly undercoat your car or truck. I will also answer frequently asked questions about Fluid Film, Surface Shield, Woolwax applications.
Here are the tools that I used in this video:
Wire Brushes (small):
Wire Brushes (large):
Needle Scaler:
Surface Finisher:
Surface Finisher Wire brush:
Bulk Products: (Compressed air required)
Professional Spray Gun:
Graphite Powder (Turns clear products black):
Surface Shield:
Fluid Film:
Woolwax:
Aerosol Products:
Spray Can Handles:
Inner cavity tool:
Inner cavity Adapter (Surface Shield only):
Surface Shield:
Fluid Film:
Woolwax:
My Amazon Store:
Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
I source all of my service data from the same place that professional shops do. You can as well:
Questions? Shoot me an email at repairgeek365@gmail.com
00:00 Introduction
1:31 How to stop rust
2:32 Why traditional paint/rubber undercoating fails
3:44 Why Lanolin/Petrolum undercoating works better
4:27 What about painting first then applying Lanolin?
5:30 Coating internal surfaces
6:34 What about cosmoline?
9:24 What product is “best”?
11:43 Equipment needed to spray bulk product
13:43 Aerosol attachments
14:56 Vehicle that we will be coating
15:46 Equipment needed to prep a rusted vehicle
17:46 How to prepare the rust
19:23 Body plug removal
19:56 How I spray the vehicle
22:59 Results after spraying clear undercoating. Reapply in a week or so.
24:13 What about GM wax frames?
25:14 Do I mask off anything before I spray/Issues with rubber???
25:53 Do I wash the bottom of the vehicle?
27:20 Still have questions? Make a comment!
Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user Repair Geek makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. Repair Geek shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by Repair Geek and therefore, Repair Geek does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge Repair Geek or anyone affiliated with Repair Geek, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law.
Likes: 18102
Views: 820823
Totally get the concept. But I live 4 kilometres down a dirt Rd Do you still recommend the lanolin??
Excellent tip
Honest question, why didn't you apply some type of rust treatment or rust converter to the rust before ?
Osphos rust inhibitor works like magic. I simply wiped it on by rag onto plain untreated steel and water dripped on that steel for a month and zero rust accumulated and it continued for 3 months till I painted it .
Been using lanolin based products on my cars here in lovely Cuyahoga County, OH for many years. What a godsend. Toyota truck looks like new after 8 winters while my many neighbors and their untreated trucks rot away. And they think I am nuts. 😂
How long this coating will last before it washes off ?
Great video, makes sense.
Why would you not treat the rust after hitting it with a wire brush. With something like phosphoric acid, rinse then hot air gun it?
And doesn't oil float on top of water, how would it displace the water? Thank you
I’ve never seen your videos before, and your vid was randomly selected as up next..
But I immediately know you are starting up a modern hemi in the first sound bite.
Sure miss my truck
Thanks for the great informative video.
One thing I'd like to add to the "no carwash" principle… It should be perfectly fine for the lucky cars you've taken care of. But if you're working on a new (old) waxing candidate, wouldn't it be a good idea to wash thoroughly after chipping off old paints and before applying wax? That is because, obviously, you never know what's been trapped underneath the dead paint layer. Namely salt, of course.
In that very same vein, my preferred method of rust removal is actually pressure washing cause it does several things at once: remove loose rust and paint, remove salt, and pre-wet the surface (wax manufacturers typically boast "water-substituent" properties AFAIK so I assume it won't hurt to have water in micro gaps before applying wax). It's a pretty messy process, like "get full PPE yet get dirty anyway" situation that I don't enjoy, but could withstand for the sake of longevity of the ride you love.
Also, I'm curious to see your take on not just traditional paint vs. wax, but traditional paint vs. sacrificial (zinc) paint vs. other primers vs. wax.
P.S. Speaking of which, I love what you've done to the Mustang… and huge congratulations to you!
Here are the tools that I used in this video:
Wire Brushes (small): https://amzn.to/3sTpNz7
Wire Brushes (large): https://amzn.to/3HuV8vO
Needle Scaler: https://amzn.to/3Hs1LPI
Surface Finisher: https://amzn.to/3znL3xW
Surface Finisher Wire brush: https://amzn.to/3FUtLuJ
Bulk Products: (Compressed air required)
Professional Spray Gun: https://amzn.to/3JITJUo
Graphite Powder (Turns clear products black): https://amzn.to/3mYBzEm
Surface Shield: https://amzn.to/3FYKptw
Fluid Film: https://amzn.to/3qGGXNC
Woolwax: https://amzn.to/3pSJTre
Aerosol Products:
Spray Can Handles: https://amzn.to/3F1d93y
Inner cavity tool: https://amzn.to/3NNtZbP
Inner cavity Adapter (Surface Shield only): https://amzn.to/3mYbOEq
Surface Shield: https://amzn.to/3JGW4PO
Fluid Film: https://amzn.to/32OQtX4
Woolwax: https://amzn.to/3sWTJKt
My Amazon Store: https://www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek
Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.